During our exploration of north Wales, Emily and I came across what turned out to be probably our favourite of the many lovely beaches decorating the Llŷn Peninsula’s coastline: Porth Ysgo.
Through some prompting from our Wild Guide of Wales (along with a lot of time spent whilst lost driving through the blackberry-lined tracks connecting the small settlements around the peninsula), we ended up parking by a little road between Aberdaron and Rhiw in the south west of the Llŷn. From there, a walk following a stream took us through heathland and past old mining tunnels – a regular reminder of the area’s historical importance for its underground resources – to a long set of steps descending to a sheltered beach.
The blue tide rushing in over smooth sands around an old mooring rock licked at the beach’s southern side, whilst Pistyll y Gaseg, the waterfall at the end of the stream we followed, trickled over the steep cliffs to its north.
With the beach to ourselves, we eagerly waded straight in for an inviting swim. Whether it was the sun setting over the cliffs and illuminating the already sparkling blue, or the gently stirring sand beneath, it felt particularly easy to glide through the cool, still water.
Sadly, the steep cliffs to the west of the beach meant that the sunset we were so eagerly awaiting was hidden, and so we had to rush off to nearby Mynydd hill on the Llŷn’s western tip in the direction of the setting sun to watch it descend over Bardsey Island. (‘Unfortunately’ is an unfair word as this was also a rather lovely experience.)
Later in the week, we returned to Ysgo, this time parking in a field by the farm from which the beach’s name came, just to its north. Feeling tired after the week of solid adventure, we settled for the afternoon to make a ginger and garlic noodle soup on the sand and recouperate. A second drift in the cool water washed away our weariness and led us to again marvel at the water’s remarkable clarity.
Returning up the steps on the way to the car, we stopped to look back once more at the blue water whilst enjoying some blackberries that sat juicily between the old wooden planks. With salty skin we waved goodbye, and hurried on round the coast to find some more nice stuff to do.
Nice Stuff We Do 